NJ Countryside Magazine

Trio of Martinsville

Trio is relatively new on the restaurant scene,
opening about a year ago. It is a delightful occupant in a space that has housed many restaurants. Owned and operated by three partners, Mike Baker, Fred Minicucci and Giovanni Manzella, Trio has been renovated to give it a sophistication reminiscent of contemporary New York décor but still warm and comfortable.

I have dined at Trio many times and always received a warm, caring greeting along with consistently professional service. The pace of your meal can be either relaxed or hurried according to your needs, just give them an indication of your wishes. In fact, a "Pre-Theater Menu" is offered for those who are going on to another activity after dinner.

Some customers judge a restaurant by the bread basket. In this case, you would be quite pleased. There were two fresh, warm bread selections in our basket and a cruet of olive oil that contained fresh thyme, rosemary and garlic. The olive oil was fruity and light, a perfect accompaniment to the hearty breads.

The food has been worth returning for, and as such I have had the opportunity to try many of the offerings. There are many delicious appetizers to choose from, ranging from a soft polenta served with sausage, spinach and garlic over marinara sauce to homemade crêpes filled with sauteed wild mushrooms served in a creamy Gorgonzola sauce. My favorite appetizer has always been the "Fritto Misto di Calamari di Gamberetti," which includes sweet, crispy fried calamari and fried shrimp with zucchini flowers (when in season), with a garlic aioli. The dish is light, crisp, extremely fresh and absolutely delicious, with the zucchini flowers adding an elegant and delicious extra touch.

One of the guests at my table regularly orders Pasta Bolognese at Italian restaurants, so I encouraged her to do so at Trio, for comparison purposes. Their menu offers "Tortellini alla Bolognese," but she preferred to have fettuccini, a request that was cheerfully accepted, enforcing the comment on the menu stating that Trio would be happy to prepare any dish you might desire and for which they have the ingredients.

Although this happy fulfillment of a request came as a surprise to some of my dining companions, I've learned from my many Trio visits that its chef is willing to accommodate pretty much any request without hesitation, despite the fact that the menu is already quite extensive and includes many of the classics that you expect to find in an Italian restaurant.

The Bolognese was as we hoped: savory, thick, full of beef and vegetables and plentiful. Other classics include a "Trio Salad" with arugula, radicchio, and fennel with Grana Padano, "Vitella alla Milanese," "Zuppa di Mare," and much, much more. When ordering, keep in mind that the portions at Trio are all extremely generous and could easily be shared with your tablemates or served as a meal at home the next day.

Desserts change regularly and cappuccino is always available. Live jazz is featured on Thursday evenings and Trio is also available for parties.

- by Barbara Seelig Brown

Trio of Martinsville 1938 Washington Valley Road, Martinsville
(732) 469-TRIO(8746) www.trioofmartinsville.com
Lunch: Monday to Friday
Dinner and Pre-Theater Menu: Monday to Saturday
Closed Sundays except for parties
Liquor/wine: No
Credit Cards: American Express, Diner's Club, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
Dress: Business casual
Dinner for two: About $100